7/30/2008

Isshinkan, Kinugawa—鬼怒川一心館

In March 2007, M & A-Mao were visiting some customers in Tokyo for few days. M returned to Taiwan in advance, while I started my two-day travel, without plans in detail, in Nikkou & Kinugawa by a World Heritage Pass. I encountered Koos from Netherlands, and both of us happily spent a whole afternoon in Nikkou. After that, we said goodbye and then were on "different trains"—somehow it reminded me of this Reich’s music. He got to go to Tokyo, whereas I had to continue my travel. It was snowing in Kinugawa at night, and I found no cheap hotel or guest house there. Well, what could I do? I went to an “onsen hotel” and negotiated by my poor Japanese. Finally, it took 20,000 yen “only” for one-night stay as well as dinner & breakfast at this Isshinkan.

2007年3月到東京出差數日後,A-Mao便利用東武鐵道的「世界遺產通票」,展開為期兩天一夜、日光暨鬼怒川、事前“沒有”規劃之旅。與在路上撿到、來自荷蘭的Koos同遊日光一下午後,兩人就在東武日光駅分道揚鑣:可愛的Koos要去東京;我則是到鬼怒川繼續未完的旅程(不知為何,心中竟響起Reich的Different Trains)。一出鬼怒川温泉駅,媽啊!都已經3月了咧,天空竟下起雪來。在這個溫泉區像頭喪家之犬尋覓了快一個鐘頭,完全找不到便宜的民宿可以投宿;在饑寒交迫下,硬著頭皮走進了一家溫泉飯店。用破爛日文及裝可憐的一番交涉後,最後「只」以兩萬日鋃,一泊二食入住這家一心館

As soon as loosing my backpack in my personal, exclusive Japanese-style room, I enjoyed Kinugawa hot spring. Their appointment is pretty good, and the feeling is so gorgeous & tranquil that my body & mind totally relaxed. And then, foods again! The appetizers came with a doburoku (or home-brew style of sake). A young waiter was fast describing all ingredients in Japanese. As long as I had a question, amazingly, he could answer immediately—but I could understand 40~50 percent only. The fried shrimp and fish from river is the best, the tofu with green source made from something is not bad, but the beef is overcooked. Regarding the others, I forgot.

在一個人獨享的日式房間放下背包,A-Mao馬上衝去泡溫泉。鬼怒川溫泉不像陽明山的有明顯的硫酸味;一心館的硬體算是非常OK的,泡起來整體的感覺高雅寧靜,肌肉、神經和思緒都得到全然的放鬆。再來……就是吃囉!首先是這前菜,附帶一小碟甜甜的濁酒(どぶろく);年輕的侍者小哥很仔細地介紹每一種食材的來頭(可是真的是說得太快了)。每當我當用幼稚園日語提問,他還真是有問必答喔(不過也只聽懂四五成)!炸溪蝦和炸溪魚最棒、豆腐配不知啥咪碗糕做的綠色醬料也很讚、那牛肉煮的有些老,不是很優;其他的,本少爺忘了。

Then, a soup and sashimi was served. Everyone can image that the soup is pure Japanese traditional type. As for sashimi, the two shiromi (or white fish) with skin is very fresh, but the akami (or red fish) of tuna is not defrosted yet (minus), and, even though I paid 20,000 yen, there is one small, delicious amaebi (sweet shrimp) only (minus). However, the piece of konnyaku goes very well with wasabi soybean source.

接著是吸物和刺身:那湯頭就是道地的昆布柴魚味啦,大家都知道的嘍;兩種帶皮的白身都很鮮美、遺憾的是,正中間的鮪魚赤身竟然沒有完全解凍(當下熊熊想不出怎樣用日文complain,扣分)、只有一隻小甜蝦也讓貪婪的A-Mao好惆悵(本少爺可是花兩萬日鋃咧!扣分)、但最右邊的蒟蒻搭上山葵醬油的口感與風味,可說的上是相得益彰。

This nimono, the waiter's favorite, is simmered with pork, burdock, carrot, green bean & ganmodoki (a fried tofu). A simple but impressing dish.

小哥說這到煮物是他的最愛。哼!不過就是豬肉、牛蒡、紅蘿蔔、四季豆跟がんもどき(漢字:雁擬き)用醬油料理罷了吧?但,豬肉肥瘦適中、每樣蔬菜都保有強烈的田野風味,がんもどき更是滿滿吸收了湯汁的好味道。樸拙,卻讓人印象深刻的料理。

This wild ayu (or sweetfish) is grilled just with salt. Its posture is so vivid, and the whole fish is eatable with a special aroma, but I left its head alone.

嘿嘿,這可是野生的香魚(アユ;漢字:鮎)喔!看這純粹的鹽燒,真的是又殘忍、又靈動啊!小哥說整條香魚從頭到尾都可以嗑;尾巴的部份最好吃,魚鰭與魚皮特別香脆;身體的部份因為沒有剔除內臟,感覺有些毛毛的、不過嘗起來馥郁豐腴;魚頭的部份因個人偏好,就沒膽品嚐嘍。

Next, A-Mao enjoyed a "toubanyaki" of mushroom, asparagus & Tochigi beef as well as a French-style soup made from yuba which is famous there. Hum, I started feeling it is worthy of 20,000 yen, a little bit.

呼!還有啊?花這兩萬日鋃開始有那麼一丁點沒被敲竹槓的感覺。小哥解釋了半天,A-Mao享用了栃木養殖,滿佈油花的和牛陶板焼き,以及用派皮包覆料理的當地名產—湯葉(生豆皮)。嗚,吃完人家就滿足地想睡了。

My God! This tempura is as crispy as splendid! With the green tea flavor salt, I was almost full up then but still chewed it within loudly crunchy sounds.

哇~~~!還有啊?天啊!這揚物炸的極其酥脆,客倌您看這華麗的樣子,有誰能按捺不動嗎?反正食材就是新鮮兩個字來形容,伴著綠茶調味過的鹽,已經十分飽的A-Mao,還是在超響的喀啦喀啦聲中嗑完它。

After another nice hot spring, I had this delicate overture as breakfast. Even though my appetite is not always good in the morning, I finished one bowl of oishii rice along with spicy mentaiko & grilled, dried horse mackerel. While I was leaving for Ryuuoukyou, their staffs were seeing me off in the front of hotel. Well, it is really touching. (You artificial Japanese! I'll be back!)

這是隔日泡完溫泉後的早餐,那小哥還現煮了味增湯。A-Mao起床第一頓總是吃不多;但那開胃的明太子跟烤竹莢魚乾,讓我過量地完食一整碗好吃的日本米飯。離開一心館前往龍王峽時,在場的員工列隊在門口揮手送別,讓孤單的我淚水差點就要飆出來(你們這些做作的日本人,我會再回來的)! 【鬼怒川一心馆】

Can you see three monkeys?—看的到有三隻猴子嗎?

7/21/2008

Yung Kee, Hong Kong—香港鏞記—ヨンキー

In October 2006, A-Mao & Bowen was in Hong Kong for an exhibition. It is our first time there, after standing by the booth on working hours and putting on leisure wear in Rambler Garden Hotel, every night we were experiencing this islands until there would be no trains back to Tsing Yi Station. While walking around, both of us frequently and excitingly encountered places in which certain cinemas of Hong Kong were shot, and Victoria Harbour & Peak is so spectacular! Not to mention lots of novel food was tasted—I will always remember that Bowen's face was shot by a "pissing beef ball". Meanwhile, my first quarrel in English was there with a taxi driver.

2006年10月,公司到香港參展。A-Mao與Bowen都是第一次來到香港,白天在攤位站了好幾個小時之後,回到華逸酒店脫下西裝換成便服,又匆匆忙忙跑出去探索香江;每個晚上都是在外面鬼混到快要沒捷運可搭,再由青衣站轉迪士回飯店休息,真的是忙碌到掛。此行主要目的是工作,事前當然沒有規劃要玩啥吃啥。兩人漫無目標地在走在街頭,每每興奮地相互驗證這裡跟那裡是那部又那部港片的場景;吃了不少新奇卻好吃的東西(我永遠忘不了B同學被“撒尿"牛丸“顏射”時的樣子XD)、維多利亞港與太平山的夜景也是非常壯闊輝煌;其間與一個迪士司機激烈口角,這還是我此生第一次用英文跟人吵架咧。【维多利亚港夜景】

After visiting Lan Kwai Fong, a foreigners' haunt for drinking and clubbing, we run in famous Yung Kee, and I therefore was facing the dilemma of dining inside with Bowen, who has a good appetite, and afterwards being jawed by my boss, or being very regretful for missing a good restaurant. We discussed almost for 20 minutes and, finally, saw eye to eye on entering it on an extremely limited budget.

逛完慕名已久的蘭桂坊,竟發現頂「港」有名聲,下「港」尚出名的鏞記就在左近。頓時天人交戰起來:兩個人手牽手進去(Bowen特別會吃),回台灣報公帳時可能會被釘得很慘;與魂牽夢繫的餐廳錯身而過,可能會遺憾好長好長一陣子。在人來人往的中環咱倆商議快要20分鐘,定下一個人只能花多少鋃的預算,愛吃的與會吃的終於還是進去了。【香港镛记】

Without reservation, we had to wait. Around 30 minutes later, we were took to a table on which the century egg with pickled ginger was served already—not free of charge. Addition to roast goose, I nervously ordered three relatively cheap dim sum and then contentedly looked into this beautiful prelude. The yummy, floating yolk is dark green, whereas the ginger is colored light pink. The image is as contrastive as the taste is harmonious.

由於沒有預約,等了快半個小時。入座後,桌上已經放了這碟酸薑皮蛋(要鋃)。在裝潢得金碧輝煌的餐廳中,除了燒鵝,七上八下的跟侍者要了三樣便宜的點心後,才安心檢視這美麗的前奏曲。嗯,看這斷面,皮蛋應是撥開為半;如果用刀切開,食客就少嗑到一點黏在刀上,如同綠翡翠般流動的糖心吧?嗚,完全沒有台灣皮蛋常有的怪味,吃時香醇濃厚的糖心在齒縫間流連忘返。皮蛋性涼,跟染成淡淡粉紅色的酸薑配著吃,真是一絕!【酸姜皮蛋】

Yung Kee is distinguished for the flying roast goose. It is called "flying" because of its special package for travelers to bring it on board. At the age of 6, I was chased by a flock of goose. Time to hit back again! The skin is a little bit crispy, the meat is rich, the fat is flavorful, & the sauce is fantastic. In conclusion, excellent delicacy served by normal service at costly price.

鏞記以燒鵝揚名立萬,不少外國遊客品嘗後,歸國時外帶特別包裝,搭機回國後好餽贈親友;因此,這鵝又號稱「飛天燒鵝」。童年A-Mao暫住新豐阿姨家時,曾被超級兇猛的鵝群追啄過;嘿嘿……這下又是俺復仇的時候了。這鵝肉軟嫩多汁、鵝皮豐腴帶脆、皮與肉之間的脂肪在入口瞬間似乎就要融化;事前的醃料在經過燒烤後,更稱托出鵝的美好風味。不過服務普普通通,價格真是給他不便宜。【飞天烧鹅】

Night view seen from Rambler Garden Hotel—华逸酒店夜景

7/18/2008

Business Twin of Toyoko Inn—東橫Inn商務雙人房

For budget travelers, Toyoko Inn is good value, clean and mostly at good location. A-Mao loves traveling abroad even though it is mainly for business. After doing team works in the daytime, however, I don’t like to accompany the other male colleague in a twin room at night, especially when we finished all topics to talk. And, sometimes we had no choice but a double room! Thanks God for that I & engineer R encountered “business twin” of Toyoko Inn in 2007. As soon as I opened its door, surprisingly, another door was in front of me—it seems to be against Chinese Feng Shui, and we happily noticed it is a toilet almost separating the room. There are two beds, two desks, two TVs, two air conditions, you name it. Both of us had basic private space, and the best is that the cost is the same as a normal twin. Those having “business twin” I know: Tokyo Kamata Higashi-guchi, Kyoto Shijo-Omiya, Shin-Osaka Chuo-guchi Honkan & Shin-Osaka Chuo-guchi Shinkan.

想必與同性同事出過差的人都知道,在安排住宿時為了幫公司省錢,通常兩個人會睡一間雙人房。訂得到twin room還好,一人一張單人床;在碰到假期和商展的時候,特定的地區及飯店有double room能睡就該偷笑了。在寸土寸金的東京與大阪,飯店房間又特別的狹窄;在經過白天形影不離的相處後,休息時還要雞犬相聞;除非兩個人都很會攪豬屎,到最後話題聊光,還真讓人囧到不行。很幸運地,在2007年讓A-Mao和R同學終於在大阪,發現東橫Inn有一種business twin:一開房門那一瞬間,赫然又看到另一扇門(這似乎犯了中國風水的忌諱);打開之後才知道原來裡面是浴室。位在房間中央的浴室,兩旁分別有獨立的床鋪、桌子、電視、冰箱、空調以及其他該有的設備;這樣的空間設計,提供了相當程度的個人隱私,我們兩個都非常喜歡。最棒的是,價格竟等同一般的twin!已知有business twin的:東京蒲田東口、京都四條大宮、新大阪中央口本舘以及新大阪中央口新舘。【东横Inn商务双人房】

Free breakfast of Toyoko Inn—東橫Inn免鋃早餐

7/16/2008

Asakusa Sansada Tendon—浅草三定天丼

In November 2007, A-Mao did business trip with engineer R for 7 days in Japan. We visited one company near by Asakusa, and then I took him to Sensouji to ask for a safe & fruitful trip from the Guanyin. After that, I chose a tempura restaurant at random without R's comment because he really has no idea about Japanese cuisines. After googling the words on the bowl lid in photos several months later, I knew Sansada is a famous & historic one. Both of us went for Tendon then, including fried a half of eggplant, a piece of squid, two shrimps (very fresh) & one whole whiting (my favorite). The rice is al dente, whereas the source is as flavorful as tasteful. For comparison, however, next time I would like to visit another famous tempura restaurant in Asakusa, Daikokuya.

2007年11月與R同學到扶桑國出差七日,一日上午拜訪一家在「淺草」附近的客戶後,就近帶他去A-Mao已經去過四次的淺草寺逛逛,並參拜了「觀音」,保佑此行能順利接單回台灣。時近中午,兩個人便開始覓食,以儲備下午拜訪下一個客戶的能量。在日本問他想吃啥,他的回答永遠是:你決定就好啦。自雷門一出來左轉,血糖甚低的A-Mao就亂選了一家滿有江戶情調的店家吃天丼。回來看看照片,按照碗蓋上的文字Google一下,才發現無心挑的,竟是大名鼎鼎的老店「三定」。我說R同學......不知不覺中,我們還應驗了一句俗諺:「一に浅草、二に観音、三に三定の天ぷら」喔!話說碗蓋一掀開,麻油伴著醬汁的香氣就迷人地竄起。炸天婦羅有一隻沙鮻(キス,發音同kiss的日文;漢字:鱚)、兩隻蝦子、一塊烏賊以及半個切成扒子狀的茄子。炸粉不是裹得很厚,所以在用碗蓋悶過後,導致外皮不會特別酥脆;不過一嗑下去,除了揚物帶給人的飽足感,舌頭就能直接嘗到食材原來的風味。茄子和烏賊算是普通、蝦子彈牙鮮甜、最棒的是那一整條沙鮻,非常豐腴厚肉,完全沒半點腥味。日本米飯硬是比台灣好吃是不用說的,這家老店的醬汁特別馥郁濃稠,鹹鹹甜甜的,讓饑腸轆轆的兩人捧著碗,一直吃到見底才肯罷手。【浅草三定天妇罗】


Tendon ekiben purchased at Tokyo station—東京站的天丼便當

7/15/2008

Magurobito Kaminarimon Shucchoujo—まぐろ人雷門出張所

Now kaiten-zushi is not special in metropolises, but Tachigui (stand-up eating) sushi seems cool & interesting to me. Magurobito (Tuna People) Kaminarimon Shucchoujo is near by Sensouji and their price is so affordable. Basically, if you order one ingredient, nigiri-zushi (hand-formed sushi) or gunkan-maki (warship roll) would be served in pairs. This time A-Mao tasted 8 kinds or 18 ones (7 x 2 + 1 x 2 x 2 = 18). As soon as I finished a nice one, I kept the other and ordered the next. The following are TOP 5.

迴轉寿司不稀奇,站著吃寿司才叫酷!在浅草寺的雷門附近,就有「まぐろ人雷門出張所」(まぐろ漢字:鮪),在非用餐時段吧台旁竟站滿了客人,A-Mao看一下店門前的菜單,價格還算合理,就進去體驗「立喰い鮨」囉。基本上,客人點一種食材,除非特別聲明,板前一定會給你兩貫寿司。此次A-Mao吃了8種共18貫(7 x 2 + 1 x 2 x 2 = 18):每吃完一貫無敵好味,就再點另一種;既能把心頭好留到最後再一倂享用,大家還能排排坐拍個紀念照,多好!自左而右:

1. Uni (sea urchin): The chef always picked the best ingredients for me maybe because of my poor Japanese. This urchin is the hugest I ever see, and it is the best experience when the whole warship sunk in my mouth.
2. Ika (squid): Although the price is cheap, the kind chef made this fresh piece more than decent.
3. Kazunoko (herring roe): It was my first time eating seasoned, golden kazunoko, which was bound to the rice with a strip of dried laver. The most crunchy sea delicacy!
4. Konasu (small eggplant): The juicy tsukemono with a little bit astringent taste should be pickled in rice bran. Like gari, or sweet, pickled ginger, this could cleanse the palate.
5. Sayori (halfbeak): The springtime & sterling fish was curved on the rice with sliced green onion & chopped ginger. Duo to its crisp texture and mild taste, Sayori was the only one I ordered once again.

1. うに(海膽):你看看、你看看,這海膽是A-Mao這一輩子中吃過最碩大的一顆,大到這個軍艦卷比其他握壽司要高了兩三公分!由衷感謝卍大慈大悲卍的板前,當時儘可能挑最佳美的材料給我這個外國人。當一整艘軍艦在口腔中沉沒時,真是痛快!【海胆】
2. いか(烏賊):雖不是昂貴的名店,生烏賊與醋飯卻被捏出微妙的緊緻感,加上食材很鮮甜,在口中咀嚼良久才捨得吞下肚子。【乌贼】
3. 数の子(鯡魚子):這一貫也是大到讓旁邊也有點鯡魚卵的歐吉桑眼紅!第一次嘗鯡魚子,先試吃兩端尖尖的部份。哇~~~!每嚼一下,鮮味就伴著一顆顆金黃魚卵「脆裂」的聲音散開;之後更厚的中段部份與飯粒之搭配口感也讓A-Mao驚豔到不行。【青鱼子】
4. 小なす(小茄子):你沒看錯,這真的只是半顆迷你茄子。多汁味美,應是用米糠醃漬過的;濃郁的馨香伴著些許的澀味,在吃過一輪海鮮後,跟醋薑一樣,有清新口腔的作用。【小茄子】
5. さより(針魚):這魚台灣也有,只是無緣地從沒吃過;這下能吃到生的豈能錯過?半條長長的魚肉盤臥在醋飯上,少許蔥花與薑末下的魚皮閃耀著銀光,非常漂亮。嗚!肉質相當爽脆清甜,讓A-Mao忍不住又再點了一次。【针鱼】


雷門: Kaminarimon—Panasonic贊助

7/14/2008

A Coda: The Best Kimchi & a Beef Soup in Busan—終曲:釜山之非凡泡菜暨牛肉湯

Surprisingly, Japanese is much more useful than English in Busan, the largest port city in South Korea. After googling, the result makes sense that this city is so close to Japan, and it takes 1.5 hour from Osaka by plane, whereas it takes 3 hours from Fukuoka by ferry. By the way, I changed tourist information with an old lady, a lonely & kind backpacker from Kumamoto, on my way to Beomeosa, a must-see temple. Let's get back to foods. When A-Mao arrived in Busan by KTX, an alluring smell of beef was floating in the underground passage connecting Busan station to the opposite Chinatown, or Shanghai Street. I therefore was liked a rat hearing the march from "the Pied Piper of Hamelin" and found this restaurant. One of their young waitresses speaks Japanese well and suggested their beef soup. The kimchi is all-you-can-eat which the best kimchi is in my whole life.

很意外的,在釜山這個韓國最大的港口城市,日語居然遠遠比英語還要通行無阻喔!回台灣Google一下,才發現原來釜山離日本那麼近,舉例來說:從大阪飛過去只花一個半小時;從福岡坐船過去也不過三個小時。(那麼用游的呢?)值得記上一筆的是,在坐地鐵去梵魚寺的途中,還跟鄰座來自日本「熊本」,一個人獨自旅行的親切歐巴桑交換旅遊情報咧!再回到吃的:搭了韓國高鐵KTX抵達釜山火車站,五臟廟早已在高唱空城記。從站前廣場走下通到對面看似比較有食物的地下道,在分別有左右往上走樓梯口,自一個可前進左轉的小小入口中,飄散出濃濃的牛肉香味;A-Mao如同聽到「斑衣吹笛人」之魔音的老鼠,只差沒手舞足蹈地茫然跺進這家餐廳。也許是當時一身旅人的行頭,一個韓國正妹(這妞兒一定也整過型)過來一開口,就用超級流暢的日文接待。她推薦了「超人気」的牛肉湯、並告知兩罈泡菜是「無料」地「奉仕」(愛吃多少就用力吃多少啦)。這,就是A-Mao此行嚐過“最最不凡”的泡菜。

From two jars, experienced A-Mao took a pair of scissors & a pincers to cut the daikon & cabbage kimchi. Firstly, it is spicy, spicy, and spicy! Secondly, it is juicy, tasteful, and balanced well with vegetables, pepper, salt, sugar & ocean flavor maybe comes from fish sauce or shrimp paste. Even though I was sweating a lot and might get a serious stomachache, I could not stop my hands & mouth. Finally, the beef soup stopped me. The broth is clear, flavorful but a little bit salty. Like the locals, I poured the bowl of rice into the soup for balance, and then it tasted so good that I composed this perfect meal as a coda of Korean cuisine in my 2007.

自桌上兩個小罈子中,各夾出一整片白菜及一大塊蘿蔔泡菜,有過雪濃湯之阿珠媽雞婆的幫忙經驗,A-Mao已經自己會用夾子與剪刀將泡菜處理成適合一口吃的大小。一吃,大驚嚇!好辣、好吃、好兩難:這……這味道已經嗆辣到破表(噴火ing,阿娘唯!辣椒是不用鋃喔);這……這好味又讓人家不忍放下沉甸甸的金屬筷(啜泣ing,這甘甜美麗的蔬菜跟魚露還是蝦醬的海洋風味怎會醃漬成這樣搭咧)。不過最後,老子還是豁出去了!反正降溫滅火的冰開水、和擦拭汗水的餐巾紙也是「無料」,冒著胃會痛到在地上翻滾的風險,面對這泡菜惡魔……嗑下去!正當狼吞虎咽卻汗流浹背之際,韓國妹悄悄地送上了在加熱後過的石鍋裡保溫的牛肉湯。嘿!不要看這湯頭非常清澈,卻滿滿都是香味蔬菜與牛的精華好味道:蔬菜煮得又軟又入味,片得薄薄的五花牛肉肌理也很富有層次感;只不過這湯真的是有點給他鹹!因此A-Mao把整碗白飯倒進湯裡;湯汁不會滿溢出來、攪拌過後的鹹度竟也剛剛好、浸淫在牛肉湯裡的飯粒既好味又好嚼。滿足地吃全部光光後,結帳時差點要站不起來,因為除了泡菜與湯飯,A-Mao可能還足足灌了兩公升的水吧?特以此篇作為2007年之韓食終曲。


Cherry blossoms & CCTV—南韓真是CCTV大國啊

Tosokchon Samgyetang—土俗村蔘雞湯

Thanks to Korea Tourism Organization. I got a free but exclusive Chinese-speaking tour guide at Gyeongbokgung for 2 hours and really enjoyed it. He highly recommended Tosokchon & their Samgyetang (or chicken ginseng soup) for a lunch near by the palace. Before my first Samgyetang, as usual, I had kimchi as appetizer. It is average, and I couldn’t tell what the difference between these two daikon kimchi is.

韓國觀光公社提供的免鋃中文導遊之帶領下,花不到一個上午,就悠閒又詳細地逛完整個「景福宮」。之後問這位專屬於A-Mao兩個小時的導遊,附近有啥好吃的餐廳?他強力推薦土俗村這間餐廳。本來想邀請他共享,謝謝他pro的解說;不過想想,人家阮囊實在羞澀……進門點了導遊特別交代的蔘雞湯(日文:サムゲタン),一碟白菜與兩碟蘿蔔泡菜、和辣椒醬及大蒜片被送上來了。嘴巴刁鑽如我,竟然分辨不出那兩碟蘿蔔泡菜的差異;不過因為這裡的泡菜並不是特別突出(也不會特別失色啦),研究了五分鐘後就宣告放棄。

I went to there at 11:30 A.M. around, and suddenly people crowded the restaurant. Most people went for Samgyetang which was served in the hot stone bowl with a small bottle of ginseng wine. I imitated the locals and then poured the wine into the soup. The broth is herb flavor & healthy, the whole chicken is young & tender, and the rice inside it is nutritious & yummy. Really fond of it but extremely full up.

A-Mao約是11點半左右進來的,才等了一下下,整個餐廳就被食客搞得沸沸揚揚,其中還不乏不少的日本觀光客喔!再不久,沸騰的蔘雞湯和一小杯人蔘酒出現了。石鍋中有一隻童子雞,用湯匙輕輕一戳就穿,想必一定熬煮過相當一段時間。雞身內塞入了糯米、紅棗、數種堅果與一支人蔘;學著坐對面的阿珠媽,把人蔘酒全倒入湯中,那一瞬間微妙的誘人氣味如火山爆發地噴香。其實一整鍋的份量很多,不過雞肉入口即化,湯飯香糯爽口,湯汁全是堅果與藥材的濃郁養身風味,卻又不會油膩。雖然撐到不行,最後還是一口一口吃到鍋底朝天。

Night view seen from Mount Namsan, Seoul—首爾南山的夜景

7/10/2008

Bibimbap: Hell & Heaven—梨泰院石鍋拌飯vs.古宮全州拌飯

From my point of view, Itaewon in which a local landmark Hamilton Hotel can be found is the most non-Korean area in Seoul for tourists. Slightly similar with "Khao San Road" in Bangkok & "Pham Ngu Lao" in Ho Chi Minh, there are lots of stores, bars & restaurants earning money from foreigners. If you don't have much budget for sleeping, I recommend a sauna in the basement of Hamilton Hotel because it's cheap and near by the subway station. But the ceiling of sleeping area is so low that you have to watch your head, and you may lie next to a guy snoring loudly. In Taiwan, anyway, dolsot bibimbap is my favorite Korean cuisine. It is served in a very hot stone bowl in which a raw egg & seasoned vegetables with chili pepper paste is cooked against the sides of the bowl, and the layer of the rice touching the bowl is golden brown & crispy. I ordered this in Itaewon which is a colorful one but the most distasteful dish during this travel time.

漫步在南韓首都,常常會不經意撞見古色古香的古蹟;個人認為首爾市最不韓流的地方,當屬「梨泰院」了吧?韓戰後,美軍在附近設置軍營,當中也免不了有不少美韓混血兒居住在該處;在民族主義作祟下,他們被稱為「異胎」,所以起初當地叫「異胎院」;後來因為不雅,才改成今日的名稱。經過一番發展,成了一個富異國氛圍的遊客區:走沒幾步就看到掛著「Exchange」和「両替」外幣兌換亭、連在路上行走的外國人的密度也特別高,略有曼谷的「考山路」及胡志明的「范五老」之情調。韓國飯店索費不貲,為了節省旅費,流浪到首爾時,A-Mao大都睡在梨泰院漢彌敦飯店……地下一樓的三溫暖。設備對於一個只求簡單梳洗及睡眠的背包客來說,還算是及格;只不過,在進睡眠區前可千萬得作些心理準備,準備看到一狗票韓國人像屍體般(特別是經過一場戰爭的那種;納粹集中營的毒氣室可能也相差無幾),七零八落地躺在燈光昏暗又要彎腰駝背才能前進的空間中。話說有一晚要進漢彌敦三溫暖前,心血來潮,在鶯鶯燕燕的梨泰院巷弄中,找了間小店跟阿珠媽要了石鍋拌飯,嗯……這看似營養豐富的一頓,也是個人覺得此行最不韓流的一餐。

Jeonju bibimbap is well-known across South Korea, and Gogung is one of the best restaurants specializing in this traditional food. This set appeared in Myeongdong. Before 7 delicate side dishes, including a few kinds of Kimchi and fried laver which is flavorful and crispy, served as accompanists, the soloist, Jeonju bibimbap, was sent in a brass bowl wearing a gorgeous dress, various unknown nuts & vegetables. One Japanese-speaking waitress helped me stir it professionally. Overall, a complicated concerto, a harmonic masterpiece, bravo!

全州憑藉甘美無比的水質,孕育著最優良的農產品,一直享有著韓國美食之都的稱號;其中又以古宮這間餐廳最負盛名。在首爾A-Mao造訪了位在「明洞」的古宮分店,這也有石鍋拌飯啦!但為了犒賞自己,跟一個通日語的小姐點了比較昂貴的全州拌飯。除了黃豆芽湯,先上了七碟樣樣都精緻的小菜(2007年此行最多小菜的一頓):辣的與不辣的泡菜不用說,名店做的還會普通嗎?最讓人激賞的是沾點粉去炸的海苔片,又馨香、又爽脆、又有揚物的飽足感,因此硬是多嗑了它一盤。伴奏的小菜很盡責地撩撥起食慾,主奏的全州拌飯被盛在熱熱的金屬碗、穿著五彩繽紛的晚禮服亮像了!美的實在讓人拍完照片後,不忍動手去攪和它;這時,那個幫我點菜的小姐卍佛心來的卍走過來,拉著我的手就拌起飯來(好害羞)、還邊驕傲地說只有真正的當地人,才能拌出最地道的拌飯。這許多陌生不知名、卻又口感多元的美味食材,譜成了一首繁複悅耳的協奏曲。食畢心得:「最忙的是眼睛、最累的是嘴巴、最快樂的是我」!

Hamilton Hotel—漢彌頓飯店