Isshinkan, Kinugawa—鬼怒川一心館

In March 2007, M & A-Mao were visiting some customers in Tokyo for few days. M returned to Taiwan in advance, while I started my two-day travel, without plans in detail, in Nikkou & Kinugawa by a World Heritage Pass. I encountered Koos from Netherlands, and both of us happily spent a whole afternoon in Nikkou. After that, we said goodbye and then were on "different trains"—somehow it reminded me of this Reich’s music. He got to go to Tokyo, whereas I had to continue my travel. It was snowing in Kinugawa at night, and I found no cheap hotel or guest house there. Well, what could I do? I went to an “onsen hotel” and negotiated by my poor Japanese. Finally, it took 20,000 yen “only” for one-night stay as well as dinner & breakfast at this Isshinkan.

2007年3月到東京出差數日後,A-Mao便利用東武鐵道的「世界遺產通票」,展開為期兩天一夜、日光暨鬼怒川、事前“沒有”規劃之旅。與在路上撿到、來自荷蘭的Koos同遊日光一下午後,兩人就在東武日光駅分道揚鑣:可愛的Koos要去東京;我則是到鬼怒川繼續未完的旅程(不知為何,心中竟響起Reich的Different Trains)。一出鬼怒川温泉駅,媽啊!都已經3月了咧,天空竟下起雪來。在這個溫泉區像頭喪家之犬尋覓了快一個鐘頭,完全找不到便宜的民宿可以投宿;在饑寒交迫下,硬著頭皮走進了一家溫泉飯店。用破爛日文及裝可憐的一番交涉後,最後「只」以兩萬日鋃,一泊二食入住這家一心館

As soon as loosing my backpack in my personal, exclusive Japanese-style room, I enjoyed Kinugawa hot spring. Their appointment is pretty good, and the feeling is so gorgeous & tranquil that my body & mind totally relaxed. And then, foods again! The appetizers came with a doburoku (or home-brew style of sake). A young waiter was fast describing all ingredients in Japanese. As long as I had a question, amazingly, he could answer immediately—but I could understand 40~50 percent only. The fried shrimp and fish from river is the best, the tofu with green source made from something is not bad, but the beef is overcooked. Regarding the others, I forgot.


Then, a soup and sashimi was served. Everyone can image that the soup is pure Japanese traditional type. As for sashimi, the two shiromi (or white fish) with skin is very fresh, but the akami (or red fish) of tuna is not defrosted yet (minus), and, even though I paid 20,000 yen, there is one small, delicious amaebi (sweet shrimp) only (minus). However, the piece of konnyaku goes very well with wasabi soybean source.


This nimono, the waiter's favorite, is simmered with pork, burdock, carrot, green bean & ganmodoki (a fried tofu). A simple but impressing dish.


This wild ayu (or sweetfish) is grilled just with salt. Its posture is so vivid, and the whole fish is eatable with a special aroma, but I left its head alone.


Next, A-Mao enjoyed a "toubanyaki" of mushroom, asparagus & Tochigi beef as well as a French-style soup made from yuba which is famous there. Hum, I started feeling it is worthy of 20,000 yen, a little bit.


My God! This tempura is as crispy as splendid! With the green tea flavor salt, I was almost full up then but still chewed it within loudly crunchy sounds.


After another nice hot spring, I had this delicate overture as breakfast. Even though my appetite is not always good in the morning, I finished one bowl of oishii rice along with spicy mentaiko & grilled, dried horse mackerel. While I was leaving for Ryuuoukyou, their staffs were seeing me off in the front of hotel. Well, it is really touching. (You artificial Japanese! I'll be back!)

這是隔日泡完溫泉後的早餐,那小哥還現煮了味增湯。A-Mao起床第一頓總是吃不多;但那開胃的明太子跟烤竹莢魚乾,讓我過量地完食一整碗好吃的日本米飯。離開一心館前往龍王峽時,在場的員工列隊在門口揮手送別,讓孤單的我淚水差點就要飆出來(你們這些做作的日本人,我會再回來的)! 【鬼怒川一心馆】

Can you see three monkeys?—看的到有三隻猴子嗎?