7/10/2008

Bibimbap: Hell & Heaven—梨泰院石鍋拌飯vs.古宮全州拌飯

From my point of view, Itaewon in which a local landmark Hamilton Hotel can be found is the most non-Korean area in Seoul for tourists. Slightly similar with "Khao San Road" in Bangkok & "Pham Ngu Lao" in Ho Chi Minh, there are lots of stores, bars & restaurants earning money from foreigners. If you don't have much budget for sleeping, I recommend a sauna in the basement of Hamilton Hotel because it's cheap and near by the subway station. But the ceiling of sleeping area is so low that you have to watch your head, and you may lie next to a guy snoring loudly. In Taiwan, anyway, dolsot bibimbap is my favorite Korean cuisine. It is served in a very hot stone bowl in which a raw egg & seasoned vegetables with chili pepper paste is cooked against the sides of the bowl, and the layer of the rice touching the bowl is golden brown & crispy. I ordered this in Itaewon which is a colorful one but the most distasteful dish during this travel time.

漫步在南韓首都,常常會不經意撞見古色古香的古蹟;個人認為首爾市最不韓流的地方,當屬「梨泰院」了吧?韓戰後,美軍在附近設置軍營,當中也免不了有不少美韓混血兒居住在該處;在民族主義作祟下,他們被稱為「異胎」,所以起初當地叫「異胎院」;後來因為不雅,才改成今日的名稱。經過一番發展,成了一個富異國氛圍的遊客區:走沒幾步就看到掛著「Exchange」和「両替」外幣兌換亭、連在路上行走的外國人的密度也特別高,略有曼谷的「考山路」及胡志明的「范五老」之情調。韓國飯店索費不貲,為了節省旅費,流浪到首爾時,A-Mao大都睡在梨泰院漢彌敦飯店……地下一樓的三溫暖。設備對於一個只求簡單梳洗及睡眠的背包客來說,還算是及格;只不過,在進睡眠區前可千萬得作些心理準備,準備看到一狗票韓國人像屍體般(特別是經過一場戰爭的那種;納粹集中營的毒氣室可能也相差無幾),七零八落地躺在燈光昏暗又要彎腰駝背才能前進的空間中。話說有一晚要進漢彌敦三溫暖前,心血來潮,在鶯鶯燕燕的梨泰院巷弄中,找了間小店跟阿珠媽要了石鍋拌飯,嗯……這看似營養豐富的一頓,也是個人覺得此行最不韓流的一餐。

Jeonju bibimbap is well-known across South Korea, and Gogung is one of the best restaurants specializing in this traditional food. This set appeared in Myeongdong. Before 7 delicate side dishes, including a few kinds of Kimchi and fried laver which is flavorful and crispy, served as accompanists, the soloist, Jeonju bibimbap, was sent in a brass bowl wearing a gorgeous dress, various unknown nuts & vegetables. One Japanese-speaking waitress helped me stir it professionally. Overall, a complicated concerto, a harmonic masterpiece, bravo!

全州憑藉甘美無比的水質,孕育著最優良的農產品,一直享有著韓國美食之都的稱號;其中又以古宮這間餐廳最負盛名。在首爾A-Mao造訪了位在「明洞」的古宮分店,這也有石鍋拌飯啦!但為了犒賞自己,跟一個通日語的小姐點了比較昂貴的全州拌飯。除了黃豆芽湯,先上了七碟樣樣都精緻的小菜(2007年此行最多小菜的一頓):辣的與不辣的泡菜不用說,名店做的還會普通嗎?最讓人激賞的是沾點粉去炸的海苔片,又馨香、又爽脆、又有揚物的飽足感,因此硬是多嗑了它一盤。伴奏的小菜很盡責地撩撥起食慾,主奏的全州拌飯被盛在熱熱的金屬碗、穿著五彩繽紛的晚禮服亮像了!美的實在讓人拍完照片後,不忍動手去攪和它;這時,那個幫我點菜的小姐卍佛心來的卍走過來,拉著我的手就拌起飯來(好害羞)、還邊驕傲地說只有真正的當地人,才能拌出最地道的拌飯。這許多陌生不知名、卻又口感多元的美味食材,譜成了一首繁複悅耳的協奏曲。食畢心得:「最忙的是眼睛、最累的是嘴巴、最快樂的是我」!

Hamilton Hotel—漢彌頓飯店

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