Hibiya Matsumotoro—日比谷松本楼

On the last day of this 7-day unaccompanied business trip, I went to the Hibiya Park. The sole motive is to banquet myself in the Matsumotorou which's founder, Mr. Shokichi Umeya, was a zealous supporter of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen and donated greatly to our revolutionary cause; besides, Hifumi Arai recommends this restaurant. Hoping my hard work & Ultracker's H.264 DVR at SXGA (about four D1) resolution would cause a revolution in Japan CCTV industry as well.

08年於日本為期七日，孤軍奮戰差旅的最後一天，A-Mao來到為於日比谷公園的松本楼，算是自己開個慶功宴；原因？當然是有來頭的：孫中山（孫文）革命滿清多次，每每受到現今松本樓社長夫人的祖父梅屋庄吉接濟，再加上百折不撓的毅力與精神，終於建立民國成功（另外，新井一二三有介紹過）。啊！那當下我的小小心願是：耕耘日本市場也那麼久了，此行又是如此艱難困苦，最後在與咱家國父有關的餐廳吃頓飯，那艾創科技之優秀的H.264 DVR @ 1280 x 1024解析度，也許能在日本當地CCTV業界，掀起另一番革命吧！

Sharing an outdoor table with the others, A-Mao was watching a child eating beef curry rice speedily but joyfully, and then it was his turn. Being dipped with some tartar sauce, fried shrimp is as fresh as crispy, and the aromatic beef sauce went so well with the soft, creamy omuraisu. If it had been served hotter, this combo would have been perfect. By the way, the Matsumotorou has a branch at the Tokyo Big Sight. If you visit this one of the largest convention venues in Japan, don’t forget to try this “omelet rice with hashed beef sauce”.

為了在戶外優雅的環境下用餐，與其他人併桌。當鄰座的小朋友快速嗑完他的咖哩飯後，我的蛋包飯佐燉牛肉醬汁伴炸蝦被送來了。擠點檸檬汁，沾些塔塔醬，哇！外皮酥脆的炸蝦，是100分的新鮮彈牙、風味十足！接著，滋潤柔軟的黃色半熟蛋、和濃醇香滑的褐色牛肉醬汁，攪拌搭配起飯來，呵！真是卓越非凡的美味（若能再溫熱一些，會更符合台灣的胃）。此外 ，去過東京Big Sight三次了，如今才曉得松本楼有一家分店在那耶（残念…）。未來有機會去Big Sight，可別忘了就近嘗嘗這道「オムレツライス・ハヤシソース」喔！【牛肉咖喱蛋包饭】

延伸閱讀：Big Sight松本樓

Tokyo Big Sight—東京國際展示場

Unamaru—うな丸【閉店】

It was my second time visiting Unamaru, a 9-seat restaurant specializing in kabayaki eel in the Omoide-Yokochou. Not only is the location near by Shinjuku Station, but its price is also cost-efficient. Their cultivated eels are delivered daily and directly from Yoshida, Shizuoka, in which cultivators are fighting against their compatriots in Aichi, and, of course, Taiwanese & Chinese. However, the restaurant's suppliers' marketing strategy is to highlight that their eels are fed with waste from fisheries processing factories nearby so that theirs are more nutritious & flavorful.

第二次造訪了位在「思い出横丁」的「うな丸」（譯：鰻魚丸），除了離新宿車站很近之外，便宜好吃是最大的原因。事前先作了些功課：這家店用的是每天由静岡県吉田町直送的養殖鰻魚。但是，由於愛知県的產量逐年攀升、加上來自台灣與中國的低價衝擊，吉田町的養鰻池正在減少中；不過，當地的業者強調：用附近水產加工場不要的魚雜餵食後，鰻魚的營養與風味都特別高，企圖創新一個食材的品牌形象。

Tried their unadon served in a bowl before, I ordered unajuu served in a box as well as grilled eel liver, which took time a little bit longer. A-Mao had unajuu waiting for a while in order to take a photo with all his meal. Rice is still rich and boxed with tender kabayaki eel & its crispy tail; meanwhile, grilled liver dressed with some shichimi plays an important supporting role. Ah! Umai!

之前吃的是盛在碗中的鰻丼，這次點了放在盒裡的鰻重，並追加了一份烤鰻魚肝。鰻重先被送來，A-Mao要它等烤鰻魚肝一下，好在共祭五臟廟前，拍張照來留念。蒲焼的鰻魚依然香味四溢，口感細緻，尾巴的部份有些焦脆，搭配上被燒烤醬汁浸濡過的米飯一起吃；其間不時嘗一口灑些七味粉的烤鰻魚肝，哎！好吃極了。【鳗鱼丸】

Address：日本国東京都新宿区西新宿1-2-8

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building—東京都庁舎

Kondoya Udon —ゲソ天丼與山菜うどん

The best Japanese octopus is come from the Seto Inland Sea, serving as a waterway between the Pacific Ocean & the Sea of Japan. In Okayama in the night of September, 2008, I was planning to find takoyaki but could not make it. I therefore went to this Kondoya Udon for my late snack.

章魚若生長在泥質或砂質的海中，無法像在礁岩地區成長的般，鍛鍊出優秀的足部肌理；瀨戶內海的洋流湍急，此地捕獲的章魚，肉質想當然爾，兼具韌性與彈性。08年九月的深夜，A-Mao在瀨戶內海邊的岡山虛晃，本想找章魚燒解饞，不過久久未果。索性，進來火車站前的這家「Kondoya Udon」宵夜。

From the menu, each donburi looked so delicious, but only geso-tendon is marked as a local specialty. Why not go for it? Costing 660 yen only, this set included a smaller donburi and a bowl of sansai udon. (Note: geso means legs of octopus or squid, while sansai means edible wild plants.)

攤開菜單，每一種丼看起來都絕頂好吃。不過，唯獨「ゲソ天丼」被標上「名物」的紅色標記。哈！豈有不吃的道理？點了只要660日鋃的プチ丼セット（小碗的丼、搭配以下其中一種烏龍麵：わかめ、山菜、とろろ昆布、月見）；A-Mao挑的是纖維素最多的山菜うどん。注：ゲソ，在日本料理中，意指烏賊或章魚的足部。

I love Japanese fried shrimp so much that one was ordered additionally. The donburi in which rice is flavored with sweet-salty sauce, topped with juicy, fried octopus and dressed with fresh spring onion is luscious, whereas the Sanuki-style udon, including fiddlehead fern & arrowhead bamboo shoot, tasted so delightful. This set was reminding me of a Chinese idiom: delicacies from land and sea.

伴隨著加點的炸蝦，「ゲソ天丼」以及「山菜うどん」亮相了！那當下，真的是不知從何下箸。外皮香脆的炸章魚腿，果真厚肉好嚼又多汁，搭配新鮮的蔥花、與鹹甜的醬汁，讓人狠狠扒了幾口飯；山菜烏龍也不遜色，昆布柴魚的湯頭清爽、讃岐風格的麵條彈牙、脆脆的蕨菜與箭筍各自表述不同的山林風味。左右開弓地吃著，A-Mao突然體悟到，啥叫「山珍海味」。 【日本冈山】

Address：日本国岡山県岡山市駅前町1-1-119

JR Pass & Shinkansen Tickets—日本鐵路周遊券與新幹線指定席車票

Moriawase of Wako—和幸の盛合せ

When you have no idea of where to eat, a restaurant which is being lined up should be an easy choice. A little after noon in September, I stood in a line for 5 minutes around, sat down and then opened the menu of Wako, a famous tonkatsu chain collecting the best ingredients. Six kinds of moriawase (or combo) attracted my interests, and I went for azami (or thistle) because this set includes fried pork cutlet rolled with cheese & perilla, fried shrimp, crab cream korokke & mini burdock salad. Besides, rice, clam miso soup & shredded cabbage are all-you-can-eat.

大排長龍的餐廳的料理一定好吃？答案我想是見仁見智；不過當你不知該吃啥好時，人氣越旺的，往往是越佳的選擇。根據這個法則，在一個九月的中午，於隊伍中等了約五分鐘，坐下、首次翻開了和幸的菜單。六種能享受非單一食材的「盛合せ」，收斂了選擇範疇。雖然「しょうぶ；漢字：菖蒲」的炸茄子很誘人；不過，最便宜的「あざみ；漢字：薊」，有豬（炸起司紫蘇豬肉捲）、有蝦（炸蝦）、又有蟹（螃蟹奶油可樂餅），當然最後被「注文」囉！附帶一提，在這只用最佳美的原料的炸豬排連鎖店，白飯、蜆味噌湯、高麗菜絲，都是可以免費追加的！

After the man beside me finished his second bowl of rice, my combo was served on an iron net, and then I squeezed some lemon juice on fried seafood. Flavor of cheese & perilla goes so well with pink cutlet, fried shrimp with tartar sauce is delicious also, and the most outstanding is that the crab korokke is very creamy inside & very crunchy outside. But the worst is that I had to eat this meal so quickly for the next meeting. Nevertheless, A-Mao encountered a nice restaurant.

當隔壁的大叔安靜地嗑完第二碗白飯，我的揚物們被置於能瀝油的金屬網上翩翩到來。隨意擠點檸檬汁在蝦兵蟹將上，挾起炸起司紫蘇豬肉捲一嘗，超級驚艷：起司的奶香由紫蘇的芳香帶領，在多汁的粉紅色豬肉間流竄，真是給他妙不可言。再來，新鮮香脆的炸蝦沾點塔塔醬，表現也著實不俗。不過最卓越的，就是螃蟹奶油可樂餅：充滿螃蟹味道的內餡是如此地綿密柔軟，讓焦香的外皮更加顯得可口酥脆。遺憾的是，為了下一個meeting，這一頓好飯，A-Mao吃得飛快；但是，「和」其有「幸」，邂遘了一家好餐廳的好料理。【和幸猪排】

Shinjuku Gyoen—新宿御苑

Kouryu Ramen—康龍拉麵

In the night of September, 2008, after visiting three customers within one day, I was trying finding something good to eat on the streets of Shinjuku. The night was not young, but people were lining up in front of this Kouryu Ramen, and poor A-Mao was in a dilemma as to whether to eat ramen—most of them were too salty for me—to refill my battery or to keep on search. Eventually, I gave ramen another chance.

在九月的某個晚上，結束了追趕跑跳碰客戶拜訪行程，饑餓的我在新宿街頭覓食遊蕩。猛然瞥見有家拉麵（康竜ラーメン）門口有群食客排隊，頓時苦惱了起來：真的好累好餓喔！這麼晚了，還有人排隊的店家，一定不會難吃，試試看啦；喂喂喂！上次來日本時不是跟自己說好，不再吃鹹死人不償命的拉麵嗎？吃或不吃、不吃或吃，竟弄得如此傷神。不過最後，疲憊的雙腿還是站在康龍店前、讓疲倦的雙手自販賣機購買餐券、好填飽撫慰疲乏的靈魂。

Very impressing customized service. By an order sheet, my noodles is not firm nor tender, the richness of tonkotsu soup is as light as possible, normally oily & spicy flavor would be a safe choice, and Hakata spring onion & chashu (roasted pork) are selected, of course. In addition to half boiled egg ordered additionally, from eight toppings, I picked karashi-takana, more spring onion, dried seaweed from the Ariake Sea, and kakuni (simmered pork).

呵呵……康龍拉麵還真是把「客製化」的服務精神發展到極緻咧！請參考照片，A-Mao首次的訂單是：麵條要既不軟又不硬、鹹度要好味卻淡到不會讓腎臟有負擔、豚骨湯頭要肥而不膩瘦而不柴、又幼又香的蔥花不要可真是暴殄天物、辣味適量夠提味就好、加上入味的多汁帶油叉燒。這種選擇權，恐怕連那些銀行家，也會斟酌好那麼一會吧？除了追加的糖心蛋，還能在其他七種物件中、挑出四種心頭好，畫一個圈：辛子高菜、更多的博多蔥花，有明海苔、還有扣肉雀屏中選。

About tasting ramen, the louder, the better. Strange from Japanese normal behavior, isn't it? Except for kakuni, anyway, each instrument was played so well that A-Mao has made an optimal option which only smart bankers can achieve. Next time, I will replace kakuni by menma (dried bamboo shoots).

欣喜卻又不安的等待中，週遭的人吃麵的聲音，真的是無敵大聲；啊日本人到底是怎樣？用聽覺來刺激強化味覺嗎？反正，總而言知、言而摠之、總之而言，這次總算是吃到合A-Moa胃口的拉麵了：糖心蛋的鹹香甘美，叫人幸福地起雞皮疙瘩；麵條是細細直直的，能滿滿地攜帶鮮味滿點的馥郁湯頭；有明海苔、辛子高菜與博多蔥花的各別馨香，讓吃麵與喝湯，多了好多好多的口感、以及嗅覺和味覺的變化；不過，跟軟嫩的叉燒一比，扣肉就沒個性地遜色了！【康龙拉面】

People-Mountain-People-Sea Shinjuku Station—人山人海的新宿駅

Ikkyudo Yakumi Kyo-Shichimi：一休堂京七味（薬味）

I like Arai Hifumi’s prose. Her style is kind of wise, casual & mo lei tau. Before returning to Taiwan, as usual, I would purchase some ingredients bringing Japanese flavors home. At a supermarket under Shinjuku Station, A-Mao encountered Ikkyudo Yakumi Kyo-Shichimi which is catering for Arai Hifumi. Therefore, there was no reason not to open my wallet. This shichimi contains chili pepper, sichuan pepper, green laver, mandarin orange peel, black sesame seed, hemp seed & poppy seed. It smells delicately stimulating and, with cool beer only, tastes not so hot but fantastic. Because of hemp & poppy seeds especially, this relish is sort of illusionary.

喜歡新井一二三的散文。有點智慧、有點瀟灑、也有那麼點無厘頭。歸國之前，A-Mao依循慣例會買些食材，把日本味道帶回家；此行在新宿車站地下的超市內，看到新井家中常備的一休堂京七味，豈有不掏腰包的道理？這京七味是由辣椒粉、罌粟籽、大麻仁、陳皮、黑芝麻、花椒、青海苔組成。打開瓶蓋一嗅，微微的刺激香氣，讓人好想痛快打個噴嚏；倒些放在虎口，配上冰涼的啤酒一嘗，七種材料的風味個性，層次相當分明。特別是罌粟籽以及大麻仁，為這調味勝品，添加那麼點「幻想」。

Tokyo Kitty—東京小貓

Your Omuraisu—「你」的蛋包飯

Each time watching TV introducing “Tanpopo (dandelion) Omuraisu”, I cannot help swallowing saliva. Finally, I went to Kissa You serving this delicacy. Not hard to find this cafe which is between Higashi-Ginza Station exit 5 & Kabuki-za.

每每看到台灣的有線日本電視台介紹當地的蒲公英蛋包飯（タンポポオムライス），當蕃茄醬炒飯被半熟的蛋捲包覆，愛吃鬼都會忍不住吞了一大口口水。卍謝天謝地卍，這次終於讓A-Mao參拜到「珈琲&サンドの店・喫茶YOU」了。其實也不難找，就在東銀座站五號出口、歌舞伎座的中間啦！

It was Autumnal Equinox Day. Although lunchtime passed, there was a crowd of customers still. No problem! Wonderful food is always worthy to wait. One cigarette, double checking shinkansen tickets & freely taking pictures spent half hour around……

雖早已過了用中餐的時候，但時值日本秋分國定假日，顧客還是坐滿這個煙霧瀰漫的老店。好吧！美好的食物總是值得等待，抽一根菸、double-check新幹線車票、加上胡亂拍些照，大約近半個小時，也就過了……

Japanese cuisines is usually colorful: light yellow omelette on dark orange fried rice dressed by fresh red ketchup & fresh green parsley. Then, the dandelion would blossom though your knife.

哇~~~！人家朝思暮想的蛋包飯晃得巍巍顫顫地來了。橙紅色的炒飯上，躺著鵝黃色的蛋捲，上頭還有擠成花式的鮮紅蕃茄醬，加上深綠的荷蘭芹點綴，組成這鮮豔的蒲公英蛋包飯。接下來就用餐刀切出裂縫，催促蒲公英花瓣绽開。

Looked not bad, and butter flavor omelette with sweet & sour ketchup shuttling among grains of rice tasted subtle. This 40-year-old kissaten is really good in cooking, but this dish seemed to be slightly greasy in the end. A-Mao guesses it is historical taste of Tokyo.

花開富貴。整個視覺效果還算不錯，吃起來的口感也很妙：濃濃的奶油香，隨著滋潤的半熟蛋捲，伴著蕃茄醬的酸甜，遊蕩在粒粒分明的飯粒間。傳承40多年的老店，手藝還真不是蓋的；不過吃到最後幾口，稍嫌油膩。我想這就是東京的古早味吧？【蒲公英蛋包饭】

Kissa You—喫茶YOU

Treasure Island in Tsukuba—筑波的寶島

A-Mao's first experience of lonely backpack was in Japan in January, 2006, whereas the first unaccompanied business trip was also in Japan. In September, 2008, for a meeting in next morning, I took Narita Express from Narita Airport to Tokyo and then took Tsukuba Express from Akihabara to Tsukuba Center. After checking in at Grand Shinonome Hotel, I was so starving. The Takarajima (or treasure island) near by might be the most optimal selection in this tranquil city.

A-Mao此生首次單獨國外旅行，2006年2月，選擇了日本；而首次單獨海外差旅，2008年9月，也是獻給了日本。到了成田機場，換了JR Pass、輾轉到つくばセンター（經過兩次實驗，先從機場到秋葉原、再 搭つくばエクスプレス到つくばセンター，是扛一堆行李的旅人的最佳路徑）。在ホテルグランド東雲check-in後，我早就餓得一蹋糊塗；就在左近的宝島焼肉，可能是當下在這個寧靜的城鎮，來自寶島的A-Mao，滿足口腹之欲的最佳選擇。

"Dolsot bibimbap teishoku" was picked because it includes rice & beef. It also came with salad, kimchi & seaweed soup. I was so hungry that the roast beef with sweet sauce tasted so good. On the other hand, I was in an ecstasy and looking forward to dolsot bibimbap.

點了有肉有飯的「石焼き風ビビンバ定食」，先豋場的是牛肋排、沙拉、泡菜、涼拌豆芽與海帶湯。也許因為餓壞了，覺得燒烤牛肋排沾甘口醬料特別美味、其他的倒也不遜色啦；不過我還是滿心歡喜得期待澱粉滿點的石鍋拌飯到來。

About 10 minutes later, the hot dolsot bibimbap was served. Having no time to take photos, I poured kimchi into it and mixed this dish. Sounds from the stone bowl sounded very delicious. As soon as it was a little bit cooler, itadakimasu! Well, it is modified to fit Japanese tongue so that it is not as spicy as those I ate in South Korea & Taiwan. But yummy as well.

約十分鐘等待，宇宙炙熱的石鍋拌飯來了；為避免吃到燒焦的米飯，還沒來得及拍照，索性把泡菜和涼拌豆芽丟進去一起攪拌。食材在石鍋中熱得嘰嘰亂叫；也引得我的胃咕嚕狂響。待稍稍涼了一點，迫不及待地開動。嗯……跟預期中有很大的反差：味道根本沒有韓國的香辣、完全針對日本人的口味作了修正嘛；不過……唉呦……也是很好吃啦。

Moreover, there are various hot & cool beverages. Regarding tea bag, 10 kinds of options. I chose osmanthus fragrans tea made in China; meanwhile, I was hoping quality control of this restaurant is Japanese standard. In all, now branches of Takarajima are almost located in Ibaraki & Chiba, and it is a cost-efficient place for yakiniku.

還有還有，許多冷熱飲料都任君選擇；光說茶包，就有十種選項。挑了有我最心愛的桂花風味的中國茶（心中OS：這家餐廳的品質管理也一定是日本標準…），來消除油膩、也許又如包裝上所寫的，能療養心靈。言而總之：宝島目前的分店還大多座落在茨城與千葉，是價格平實、水準以上的燒肉餐廳。【筑波的宝岛烧肉】

Grand Shinonome Hotel—ホテルグランド東雲